Sashiki Ue Gusuku

Sashiki Ue Gusuku is the site of a gusuku (castle) atop a hill in Sashiki, designated a historic site by Nanjo City. It has none of the tall stone ramparts seen at other gusuku; here, the hill itself was the castle. Excavations have uncovered rows of stones laid to keep the slopes from collapsing, but no grand fortress walls have been found. From the hilltop, Nakagusuku Bay and the Katsuren Peninsula spread out before you, and on a clear day you can even see Kudaka Island in the distance.

According to Nanjo City's account, this was the residence of Sho Hashi, who unified the Ryukyu Islands, and of his father Sho Shisho. From this base, Sho Hashi is said to have conquered Shimasoe Ozato Gusuku and gone on to unite the three rival powers of Ryukyu — the unification of the Three Kingdoms. Though it was the stage where that history began, it remains today a quiet hill. It is also one of the places of prayer on the Agariumai pilgrimage route, long cherished as land tied to the royal family.

On the hilltop stands Tsukishiro no Miya, built to mark the five-hundredth anniversary of Sho Hashi, where members of the royal line are venerated together. It is a place of worship, so please be considerate of those quietly offering their prayers. If you come seeking imposing stone walls, you may be a little underwhelmed. What this place offers is not stone but the view.

Gazing out over the sea and the islands from this open hilltop, you cannot help but wonder what the young Sho Hashi saw from here. Take in, quietly, the landscape where a history began.